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Gordon
DUMBARTON CASTLE (**)
OS64 NS400744

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Black and ominous guarding the Firth of Clyde,
Dumbarton Rock from Newark.

On the north shore of the Clyde, south of Dumbarton town centre, off minor roads S of A814 and A82.
Dumbarton from Dun Breatan, Fort of the Britons.
Built upon a twin peaked volcanic plug which oversees the Firth of Clyde, only a 14thC portcullis arch and some portions of the guard house remain of the mediaeval Royal castle of Dumbarton. The remaining structure is essentially a military fortress of the 18th & 19th centuries.

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From the south bank at Finlaystone.

Dumbarton has been fortified since at least as early as the 5thC, when St Patrick wrote to the subjects of Ceretic, King of Alcluith, castigating them for a piratical raid on his Irish converts.
It was the capital of the kingdom of Strathclyde, the nation of the Britons, and was besieged on several occasions. In 756 a combined force of Picts and Northumbrians took the castle, only to be annihilated themselves a few days later. The buildings on the rock were burned in 780, though it is not certain whether this was a result of hostile activity.
In 870 a Viking attack led by Olaf the White of Dublin and Ivar the One-Legged led to a four-month siege. They severed the water supply and starved the occupants to submission. The castle was plundered for its wealth and people, 200 longships carrying the booty to Dublin. This marked the demise of the Britons.

They returned to strength in the 10thC, and extended their territory southwards. In 1018 following the death of Owen the Bald last king of the Britons at the Battle of Carham, Malcolm 2 of Scots was able to set his grandson Duncan upon the British throne. When Duncan succeeded to the Scots throne in 1034, Strathclyde was finally integrated into the Scottish kingdom.

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View east from the summit, upstream to Glasgow.
The rocky patch in the foreground
is the supposed site of the 'White Tower'.

Later in the 11thc, during Malcolm Canmore's reign, it is mentioned as 'Castello Arturius'
Little is then heard of Dumbarton until in 1222 the burgh charter mentions the new castle. Dumbarton at this time was of significant importance as it guarded the western approaches to the realm from the Viking territories of the Isles and west highlands. Until their defeat at the battle of Largs in 1263, the territory of the Norsemen came as close as Kilcreggan on the Roseneath peninsula, where it is likely that a Norse watch tower occupied the site of what is now Craigrownie Castle. (About 6 miles as the crow flies, or the longboat sails!)
It is also around this time that it mentioned again as 'Arthur's Castle', although since the 19thc this reference became transposed on OS maps to the mound thought now to represent Cardross Manor, Bruce's deathplace.

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View west from the summit.
The site of Cardross Manor is to the right of the park.

From these early years it is evident that Dumbarton was a Royal castle, and as such was a target of Edward 1 in his invasion of 1296. He subsequently installed sympathetic Governors, such as Sir John Mentieth, the captor of The Wallace in 1305. Legend asserts that Wallace was brought here as a prisoner prior to his departure for London, though most authorities think this unlikely.
In 1333, in the aftermath of the Battle of Halidon Hill, the Scots sent their young king David 2 and his queen Joanna of England to reside here for security. At this point Edward Balliol was attempting to regain his father’s former realm for himself, with English support. Dumbarton although on the west coast was then to become Scottish royalty’s accustomed embarkation point for the safety of France, and the young couple departed in early 1334.
As a Royal castle under the care of the rebellious Earl of Lennox in 1489, it was again besieged by the young James 4 himself, the castle being occupied by Lord Darnley, the Earls heir. The siege failed as the garrison burnt the burgh, but James returned the same year and was successful. He may have utilised the great bombard “Mons Meg” in the assault.
The castle remained at the centre of national events, when in 1514, during the minority of James V, and in the aftermath of Flodden, it was held by the Lord Erskine for the Queen Mother. The Earl of Lennox captured it at this time on behalf of the opposing faction led by the Earl of Arran. The assailants had tunnelled below the north entrance and stormed the garrison.

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View north from the summit, up the River Leven
to Ben Lomond and the highlands.

A year later the Duke of Albany arrived at the castle from France to take up his duties as Governor of the Realm. As the late king’s cousin he had been invited to take up the role as a neutral, and immediately arrested Lennox, installing a garrison of Frenchmen. He thereafter used Dumbarton as his regular port of departure to France. In 1523 he arrived with a large French force with the intention of invading England, but the plan was never followed through due to inconsistent support from the Scots. He left the following year with his troops and never returned. The divided Scots nobles squabbled over the castle and control passed amongst the various parties, until James V regained it as a base for several sorties to the west.
In 1548 it again had a royal resident, as the young Queen Mary was brought to the castle to protect her from the effects of the “Rough Wooing” of Henry 8th. She left for France within 5 months, where she married the Dauphin, heir apparent to the throne. She returned to visit (didn’t she visit everywhere?) in 1563. Her Governor of the castle was the Lord Fleming of Cumbernauld, who had fled with her to England after Langside in 1568. He returned in 1570 to be besieged in the castle by the Regent Moray. The arrival of a French fleet and the murder of Moray relieved him within a few weeks.
Fleming held the castle for the Queen until 1571, when Captain Thomas Crawford of Jordanhill took it for the young James 6th, his assault is recorded in detail.

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The castle, across Leven from Dumbarton.

Leaving Glasgow an hour before sunset on the evening of the 31st March, Crawford and about a hundred men carried ladders and ropes with iron hooks. They were armed with muskets. By 1a.m they halted a mile from the castle, and bound their guns to their backs, and crossed what was then marshland to the north-east curtain wall, at the highest point of the cliff where attack would be least suspected. Climbing by stages they reached the base of the wall at dawn, and as the first of the assailants crossed the walltops, a sentry raised the alarm. The garrison awoke and were attacked by Crawford’s men. Three died, and the remainder fled. Crawford established his forces on the area known as the Beak, the summit of the eastern peak, and when no counter attack developed used the castles own artillery against the remaining garrison strong points. Most of the garrison fled, some captured, but the Lord Fleming made his escape by sea. Archbishop Hamilton of St Andrews, one of the exiled Queens staunchest supporters was captured, and later tried and executed.
The castle changed hands several times during the Covenanting period, and the Civil War. It sustained much damage, and required extensive repair by the time extension and improvement work was begun in 1675.
Thereafter the castle functioned mostly as a state prison, with a few noble inmates, until it regained some strategic importance as a military installation in the Jacobite years. From then on military buildings and gun batteries obliterated the mediaeval castle, as its role continued through the Napoleonic wars and into the 19thC. It was used as a military prison throughout this period. The constructions of that time represent the bulk of what we see today. It remained in use as a military installation until World war 2, when two bombs were dropped on it during the raids on Clydebank.
Historic Scotland, 01389 732167, open daily year round, closed Thursday afternoons and Fridays, October to March.
Other names; Alcluith, Alt Clut; Clyde Rock

For more pics,
http://www.darkisle.com/d/dbarton/dbarton.html
http://argo.panoramix.net.pl/fotogaleria/s...d/dumbarton.jpg
http://www.scottielad.supanet.com/dumbarton/index.htm Click the thumbnails at this site for bigger pics.
http://www.rampantscotland.com/visit/blvisitdumbarton.htm
Gordon
QUOTE
Is It Arthur's Coffin?

What can be said is that the capital A on the horse on the sarcophagus is very tantalising. There are strong traditions linking Arthur with Dumbarton - its name means fort of the Britons - and it is not far down the river from Govan. If Arthur was based there, and there is strong evidence to suggest this, he would doubtless have been a regular visitor to any early Christian site at Govan.

There is no argument that Govan was a major ecclesiastical site and after Arthur's death, it would be a suitable site for his burial, even though he was a war leader rather than the king of later romances. The internal dimensions of the coffin itself appear to be somewhat restricted for a full-length human corpse but it is feasible that Arthur's body, if it ever lay here, might have been mangled after his death in battle at Camlaan (Camelon near Falkirk).

While it is impossible to prove absolutely that this is the coffin of the legendary Arthur it does seem at least a possibility well worth considering.

As I have stated we underestimate the veracity and relevance of the storytelling tradition - remembering that even today in Scotland, there are storytellers who were given all their material by word of mouth, exactly as such material was passed on a thousand, or two thousand years ago. Without scientifically dating the sarcophagus we cannot be absolutely certain when it was made but as we begin to truly appreciate the extent of Arthurian material in Scotland many ideas are due to be challenged.

Arthur is said to have battled with Picts and Scots and Angles and the place where the Britons were directly up against these different tribal groupings was in Central Scotland. If he was, as the material about him suggests, a Christian warrior fighting against the pagan tribes of Dark Age Scotland, his status as a great hero is hardly surprising.

After all Christianity was triumphant and where better to honour the hero than in a major ecclesiastical site, easily accessible by water and close to the capital of the Strathclyde Britons.


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Related links

http://www.clannarthur.com/home_index.htm
http://www.sunnygovan.com/PLACES/Architect...arcophagus.html
http://www.angelfire.com/mac/noremac/kingarthurascot.html
http://www.sacred-texts.com/neu/eng/prwe/prwe158.htm
http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/20...ngarthur_2.html
Duncan
I'm taking my reply to the Arthurian topic since this is about Dumbarton Castle and I don't wish to clutter it.
Gordon
That's fine, I wasn't trying to reopen the discussion here, just providing some more background info for the Arthurian enthusiasts! You don't often hear any of this stuff, and the Govan Sarcophagii, because there are a few of them, are wortwhile bringing to anyones attention for whatever reason! This is about Dumbarton, and whenever you look at a site like this you have to look at how it fitted into the bigger picture, what else is around it, and what connections it has to it's landscape and other antiquities regionally. The dark Age history of Dumbarton misses much of this because it was a medieval Royal castle and so a national scene is analysed, so regional connections are overlooked, and potentially miss important data!
Duncan
I agree with you and all info is important.
I had heard so very little of the Govan Sarcophagii and was glad to read more about them.
I didn't want to take any thing away from this thread nor clutter it with my theory's.
AJR
Prints of the castle in 1827. (courtesy of www.antiqueprints.com)
Gordon
The second shows the 14thc portcullis arch mentioned previously.
AJR
A print of Dumbarton Castle from "The Souvenir of Scotland", 1894. (courtesy of www.antiqueprints.com)
Gordon
Thanks for that, though I can't ever recall seeing the Clyde so well coloured!
It's usually a kind of grey mud colour! laughlong.gif
Gordon
Images On Line from RCAHMS

From Canmore;
QUOTE
NS47SW 5.00 39988 74485

NS47SW 5.01 c. NS 3998 7441 Chapel
NS47SW 5.02 NS 40010 74407 (Governor's House)

(NS 4000 7446) Dumbarton Castle (NAT)
OS 6" map (1922 )

Dumbarton Castle. For historical and architectural description see Guide.
I MacIvor 1958

Apart from the fragmentary remains of the White and Wallace Towers, and the Portcullis Arch, all as described by MacIvor, the buildings and walls which now form the Castle, date from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Visited by OS (JLD) 29 November 1960

The principal objective of the work was to seek archaeological evidence which might be correlated with the well-known documentary evidence for Dumbarton (which some identify with Alcluith) as an important British stronghold in the Early Historic period. In particular, traces of possible early defences had been detected on the Beak, the larger of the two hills which comprise Castle Rock; and these traces were t ested by excavation.
Four trenches were excavated on the Beak and the findings in each are summarized here.
Trench A examined a sharp slope on the W side of the hill, above an apparently rock-hewn passage-way. The discovery of a turf-stack containing a sh erd of Antonine Samian gave high promise of an early defence; but the rubble foundation of the turf bank overlay green-glazed pottery. It seems likely that the structure was the flag-pole mound seen in Slezer's drawing of about 1693.
Trench B examined the flat top of the hill. The level ground was found to be a make-up of ash and cinders. This may perhaps be dated to the mid 16th century by two pieces of Charles I, but was deeply disturbed by rubbish pits of the 1939-45 war.
Trench C examined a bank on the E side of the hill, and showed that it was later than a layer of mason's chips from the mid 18th century magazine.
Trench D was sited on a quarried ledge on the Clyde-ward side of the hill. Modern debris was less abundant here, and there were tenuous traces of drystone and timber buildings. These could not be fully explored in the time available, and Trench D demands further exploration. Finds included two silver pennies of Edward I - Edward II, and a strap-handle from an 'E-ware' pitcher of Dunadd type.
it is clear that there are no visible traces of defences earlier than those of the medieval castle. (this does not exclude the possible existence of buried traces). Moreover, the demonstration that all the areas of level ground on the E hill are re cent creations implies that this hill was originally rugged and craggy as the W one.
L C Alcock 1974

A second season of excavation explored rock-cut terraces on each of the twin summits. The W terraces yielded principally recent pottery and appeared to have been garden plots using earlier stone quarries. The E terrace had carried some form of timber buildings, but contained material swept off thesummit. This ranged back from building debris of 1939-45, and included fragments of mail; iron tools and a rrowheads; a dispersed hoard of Edward I and II; a few sherds of Saintonge ware and much green-glazed; fragments of probable Merovingian glass; post-Roman import wares of class Bi, Bii and E; and a very little Roman pottery.
Outside the medieval and later curtain, on the E spur of the Rock, traces were found of a timber-and rubble rampart which had been burnt and partly vitrified. It is doubtful whether this had formed a continuous enceinte; and the purpose of the defence-work as explored had probably b een to control access to the Rock across a tidal isthmus. This work may have been destroyed in AD 780 (when Annals of Ulster record the burning of Dumbarton) or after a Hiberno-Norse siege in AD 871-2. Finds apparently from the destruction of the rampar t included a Norse lead weight decorated with a glass bangle fragment of Lagore type, and an iron sword pommel with Irish parallels. The rampart itself probably formed part of bede's civitas Brettonim munitissima (HEi, 1).
L C Alcock 1975

NS 400 744 Rec ent excavations have shown that Castle Rock was fortified during the Early Historic Period and may be the Alduith described by Bede as a political centre of the Britons. Most of the remains now visible, however, are of 17th-and 18th-century date and very little survives even of the medieval castle that subsequently occupied the site.
December 1977
DES (1974), 32-3; Alcock 1975; DES (1975), 19-20;
Alcock 1976

Excavations were carried out in 1974-5 at Dumbarton Castle, anciently known as Alt Clut or Clyde Rock. They revealed a timber and rubble defence of Early Historic date overlooking the isthmus which links the rock to the mainland. Finds include the northernmost examples of imported Mediterranean amphorae of the 6th century AD, and fragments from at l east six glass vessels of germanic manufacture.
L Alcock and E A Alcock 1991.

NS 400 745 A watching brief was maintained during the excavation by Historic Scotland staff of a power cable trench in an area immediately E of the Governor's House, latterly a garden. Masonry dating from the earlier Gatehouse (demolished in advance of the 18th century artillery fortification) was revealed running E-W close to the E wall of the Governor's House (NS47SW 5.02).
Sponsor: Historic Scotland.
G Ewart 1995.

NS 4000 7446 A watching brief and small excavation were conducted at Dumbarton Castle by Kirkdale Archaeology in December 1996. The works involved the clearance of 300mm of floor deposits in the 18th-century powder magazine, in advance of the installation of a n ew floor and the opening of the magazine exhibition to the public. In addition, a small trench was excavated to the W of the 18th-century Governor's House, in advance of the installation of a moveable gate-post.
Various backfilling and levelling deposits were found in the trench; a lead pipe, some 60-80mm in diameter, was found at a depth of 450mm. The remains of a capped drain were also revealed. This feature ran parallel to, and may have formerly served the Governor's House. No datable finds were reveal ed. The drain comprised well-mortared dolerite blocks on the E side and a single red sandstone slab on the W, with an irregular flattened dolerite slab collapsing into the channel so defined. The survival of the drain indicates that such features may surv ive beneath 1735 levelling material. It is of particular interest that the levelling medium may even overlie the remains of the medieval gate-house and nether bailey.
Clearance work was undertaken in the powder magazine, situated at the second highest poi nt of the rock, known as 'The Beak', and measured 4.4 x 5.2m internally. The building was erected in 1748, replacing an earlier magazine on the site. The in situ floor deposit comprised random brick rubble and mortar-rich sand. The bricks were relatively modern, being frogged and uniformly sized. The original sprung timber floor would have lain some 200mm below the present surface, resting on slight ledges protruding from the bases of the interior long walls, which were founded directly on the bedrock. Th e brick rubble deposit represents a period post-dating the use of the building to store explosives, as it blocked the vents in the long walls necessary to maintain a damp-free environment internally. Finds include occasional iron nails, and three larger i ron bars. None of the finds were removed from the site
Sponsor: Historic Scotland
G Ewart and A Dunn 1997

NS 4000 7446 A watching brief was undertaken in October 2000 during minor excavations at the powder magazine at Dumbarton Castle (NMRS NS 47 SW 5). No significant discoveries were made.
A further watching brief was undertaken in March 2001 while contractors excavated a series of trial pits in and around the French prison. The purpose of the trial pits was to investigate the subsidence presently affl icting the W wall of the building. The pits were dug at various strategic points in order to determine the nature of the underlying deposits, as well as checking the strength of the foundations.
In total, the evidence from the pits regarding the stability of the French prison masonry revealed that the long E wall of the building is built directly on bedrock while the W frontage sits on and within a soft fairly wet sludgy silt. The result of this positioning is an inevitable settlement of the W side of the structure.
Trial trenching was undertaken in May 2001 in an attempt to recover the line of an 18th-century sentry path believed to have existed along the inside face of the N curtain wall, where it runs between the Wallace Tower and the Argyll Battery. R emains of unmortared paving were found only at the W end of the wall; elsewhere the stones seem to have been removed. Various 17th to 20th-century midden deposits were found accumulated against the inner face of the curtain wall, while the wall itself was seen to sit on top of a lower wall, potentially an earlier perimeter.
Sponsor: Historic Scotland
G Ewart and A Dunn 2001

NS 400 744 A small cable trench was excavated in February 2002 adjacent to the W wall of the steps leading from the Governor's Hous e to the Guardhouse. A small stump of an earlier wall was found protruding from under the present wall on the garden terrace below the Guardhouse. This was possibly the remains of an earlier approach to the entrance to the upper castle, leading from the p robable site of the medieval Hall, to the W of the Governor's House, thus adding weight to the theory of this being the original location of the Hall.
Archive to be deposited in the NMRS.
Sponsor: HS
G Ewart and J Franklin 2002

NS 400 744 Three small p its were excavated in February 2003 to erect a gate in the gap between the Governor¿s House and the parapet wall of the King George Battery. Levelling layers were found, including building debris from various periods of construction, possibly relating to the laying of the path or the building of the King George Battery.
Archive to be deposited in the NMRS.
Sponsor: HS
G Ewart, D Stewart 2003

NS 400 744 Archaeological monitoring was undertaken in March 2004 during the excavation of foundation pads for a
handrail by the flight of stairs near the Governor¿s House, with a light gravel path covering the areas at the top and bottom of the steps. There were no finds of archaeological significance.
The need to erect scaffolding over the Inner Gateway and dr awbridge required monitoring of clearance of turf and topsoil over bedrock on the E side of the gate. Nothing of archaeological interest was revealed.
Archive to be deposited in the NMRS.
Sponsor: HS.
A Radley 2004

Watching brief NS 4005 7440 A watching brief was undertaken in October 2004 during the clearing and removal of vegetation and soil in an area near the portcullis on the E side of the main stairway through the castle complex (NS47SW 5.00). This area consisted of a purpose-built platform just S of the E side of the portcullis. The platform measured c 5 x 2m, with a roughly metalled or cobbled surface, and no clear structural function beyond the reinforcement of the
rock face.
The shallow excavations required for the creation of new bicycle rac ks on the bowling green immediately within the castle compound was monitored. Nothing of archaeological interest was revealed.
NS 3999 7448 A number of artefacts were found by a visitor, and the area where they were reported to have been discovered was e xamined: on the surface to the W of the staircase leading from the guardhouse to the portcullis arch. The finds include a copper-alloy coin, green-glazed pottery, a piece of black glass or black glazed pottery, clay pipe stems, a small quantity of animal bone, and a number of sherds of white glazed and patterned pottery. These finds
were unstratified and are of limited archaeological interest.
Archive to be deposited in NMRS.
Sponsor: HS.
C Shaw 2005

Evaluation; watching brief NS 4000 7440 A short pr ogramme of clearance and evaluation was undertaken in January 2005. The site consisted of the walled-off area below King George¿s Battery on the S side of Dumbarton Castle rock, an irregular-shaped courtyard containing two adjoined buildings. It was hoped that original occupation surfaces might be
revealed; in particular, the cobbled W half of the site was expected to exhibit the footprints of lost structures. Following this initial work, a watching brief was undertaken while contractors cut a number of drain and foundation trenches.
This area appears to have been a Victorian addition, set against the old sea wall of a Georgian gun battery. All structures and features seen during these works therefore date from the mid- and late 19th century to the late 20th century. The basic structure is mostly intact, comprising the new sea wall, the two store sheds and the general levelling deposits. An original gateway positioned halfway down the compound had been demolished, probably to improve access to the end o f the site. The cobbling at the W end of the site seemed to respect the line of the gateway and consequently was probably in place while the gateway was in use.
NS 3996 7453 A small excavation was undertaken in July 2005 around the French Prison, which l ies just S of the Duke of York¿s Battery. The aim was to examine the foundations to assess the nature of the underlying material and assist in establishing suitable areas for engineering work.
Previous archaeological work had been carried out on the N an d W sides of the building (DES 2001, 98) in the form of
small trial trenches with similar criteria. This was expanded upon, exploring additional sections of the building in order to ascertain the relationship between the building and the underlying bedro ck. Stone-lined drains and other features were exposed and recorded, which appeared to pre-date the French Prison.
Archive to be deposited in NMRS.
Sponsor: HS.
D Stewart 2005
Architecture Notes
NS47SW 5.00 39988 74485

NMRS REFERENCE

In the National Library of Scotland is a series of Military Maps and Drawings (many are coloured) of the Board of Ordnance, relating to the works executed in the 18th Century. Reference "MSS. 1645 - 1652".

In Volu me or Case No.1647 are the following Drawings relating to the Castle of Dumbarton:- which is under the charge of the Commissioners of H.M.Works:-
No. Z.2/71.- "A Draught of Dumberton Castle", with Explanation, Anno 1708.
Sca le 60 Feet to an Inch. There is also a copy.
Z.2/72.- "A Plan of the Castle of Dunbarton and the repairs requisite 1709".
Scale 35 Feet to an Inch. With Reference.
Z.2/73. "Dunbarton Anno 1719". Various Plan s and Sections of the Buildings.
Scale 10 Feet to an Inch.
Z.2/74. "A Design for a Powder Magazine proposed to be built at Dumbarton Castle", 1748. Scale 5 Feet to an Inch. Signed by W. Skinn er. There is also a Copy.

There are also in Volume or Case No. 1649:-
No. Z.3/49. "Plan of part of the North-end of Dunbarton Castle and proposed Situation for a Barrack &c with designs for same". Scale 24 Feet to an Inch. No date. Signed by H. Rudyard, Captn, Rl. Engineers.
Z.3/55. "Plan of the Castle of Dunbarton" with two views in monotone. There is a note appended to the effect that the Plan was "Handed over t o Lieut. Monier Skinner, Rl.Engineers by his father in 1872". The Plan itself is not dated.

In the Edinburgh Evening Courant of August 17th, 1844, it was reported that "The Governorship of Dumberton Castle having been abolished up on the demise of General Lord Lynedoch, the Governor's Houseand premises fall into the Board of Ordnance; and the intention is there to establish a military prison for North Britain".


The National Library of Scotland, Edinburgh, contains, among the 'Unc atalogued MSS of General Hutton', and numbered 35 in Vol.11, a Sketch of a Gate in Dumbarton Castle, copied from a Drawing by Capr. Columbine, R.N.

EXTERNAL REFERENCE
SCOTTISH RECORD OFFICE
Repair of the Castle of Dumbarton.
Letter (copy) from the Earl o f Mar to James, Duke of Lennox.
He explains that lack of money delays repair.
1628
GD 124/15/77
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
References
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