Thanks for updating the image. :thumbs-up:
Was the PM on the makeing and cost of your sword OK or can I help further on that?
I have plans to post a image or at least a drawing of my dream sword as soon as I can.
Full Version: My Dream Sword
Thanks 
-David
Oh, yeah... don't keep us waiting regarding the image of your dream sword.
-David
Oh, yeah... don't keep us waiting regarding the image of your dream sword.
Duncan, I finally sat down and drew my dream sword. These are the basic specs:
It's basically the same as the sword in my avatar, which is from the Maciejowski Bible. The best online link I've been able to find to the Maciejowski Bible is here, at Medieval Tymes.
What I'm looking for is some info on how this sword ought to be forged, keeping it as historically accurate as possible, and how much something like this would probably cost me.
Thanks!
It's basically the same as the sword in my avatar, which is from the Maciejowski Bible. The best online link I've been able to find to the Maciejowski Bible is here, at Medieval Tymes.
What I'm looking for is some info on how this sword ought to be forged, keeping it as historically accurate as possible, and how much something like this would probably cost me.
Thanks!
Bah... I must have deleted the PM by accident :banghead: . If it wouldn't be too much trouble, could you repost here? Thanks!
David :sheildsmile:
David :sheildsmile:
Nice. Very similar to Oakeshott's type XIIa.
Have you started working on the forging yet?
Have you started working on the forging yet?
I'm doing a work up now and will have it as soon as I can :nod:Sorry for the delay due to PC problems. I expect to have something in the next few days. :laughlong:
I'll go looking for it right now, I've got my PM's set for about 500 or more so I might be lucky, :wink2.gif:
Not really, years ago I had the metal ready for drawing out but it went for a customer instead.
It's much like that old proverb, a mechanics car is always broke.
Trying to play catch up around here before the winter sets in and consolidate as I do every year to keep form losing what has been built on the project.
It's much like that old proverb, a mechanics car is always broke.
Trying to play catch up around here before the winter sets in and consolidate as I do every year to keep form losing what has been built on the project.
Bumping thread.
I finally got around to editing and re-posting the picture.
-- :sheildsmile: David
I finally got around to editing and re-posting the picture.
-- :sheildsmile: David
yup found it, 
Hope this helps but please feel free to ask for more details, I'll help in what ever way I can.
QUOTE
I'd use a good coal instead of wood unless you prefered the wood.
I'd either make the blade out of spring steel and drawn out to the right thickness or sandwich a soft steel core with a harder edge which requires more work.
I believe in a full as wide as possible tang, but shaped as the real one would have been and not as the reproductions are.
The hilt would be of brass, some etchings or markings I can do and those more intricate would have to be subbed out to some one that is better skilled.
For a time I'd have to leave the wood and wire wrapping of the grip to you due to the work schedule around here.
Heres a link to another blade maker in Scotland, and frankly his prices are better then mine, he can keep his cost down by using stock steels bought over the counter
If I do it in this fashion I can pretty well match him on most items dollar for his pound.
The castle keep
I'd either make the blade out of spring steel and drawn out to the right thickness or sandwich a soft steel core with a harder edge which requires more work.
I believe in a full as wide as possible tang, but shaped as the real one would have been and not as the reproductions are.
The hilt would be of brass, some etchings or markings I can do and those more intricate would have to be subbed out to some one that is better skilled.
For a time I'd have to leave the wood and wire wrapping of the grip to you due to the work schedule around here.
Heres a link to another blade maker in Scotland, and frankly his prices are better then mine, he can keep his cost down by using stock steels bought over the counter
If I do it in this fashion I can pretty well match him on most items dollar for his pound.
The castle keep
Hope this helps but please feel free to ask for more details, I'll help in what ever way I can.
I haven't thought of this old design in years. It's close to what I have in mind but as in all things subject to change when it comes down to the crucible.
I've seen drawings similar any where form the 11th c to the 19th c.
Blade: 39 inches long x apox. 2 inches wide or a wee bit over, with a single continuous fuller. Use a high carbon content for the edge with a softer inner steel core (instead of iron due to modern metals) for flex.
Edge will be a hollow grind and ending 4 inches from the guard.
Grip: 8 inches x apox. 1 1/2 inch stretched and dried (worked) soft leather strips wrapped over contoured oak.
Cross Guard and Pommel: Tempered brass, I won't use any thing less if brass is utilized. The Pommel will be flat sided, possible with a lead core added to off set the weight of the blade.
I'd like the frog (belt holder) to have hard plastic ball bearings in the V's instead of the usual steel <=> that dulls a blade every time its drawn.
It won't have the ancient heart stopping sound that a blade being drawn has but will help the blade to remain keener longer.
One of the first blades I helped the master smith with, who taught me, was a sort of straight saber with the top edge going half way to the hilt.
Balanced well, had the weight for cut and slash but also was able to parry and counter point.
The design was something I considered for a long while for my own use.
I've seen drawings similar any where form the 11th c to the 19th c.
Blade: 39 inches long x apox. 2 inches wide or a wee bit over, with a single continuous fuller. Use a high carbon content for the edge with a softer inner steel core (instead of iron due to modern metals) for flex.
Edge will be a hollow grind and ending 4 inches from the guard.
Grip: 8 inches x apox. 1 1/2 inch stretched and dried (worked) soft leather strips wrapped over contoured oak.
Cross Guard and Pommel: Tempered brass, I won't use any thing less if brass is utilized. The Pommel will be flat sided, possible with a lead core added to off set the weight of the blade.
I'd like the frog (belt holder) to have hard plastic ball bearings in the V's instead of the usual steel <=> that dulls a blade every time its drawn.
It won't have the ancient heart stopping sound that a blade being drawn has but will help the blade to remain keener longer.
One of the first blades I helped the master smith with, who taught me, was a sort of straight saber with the top edge going half way to the hilt.
Balanced well, had the weight for cut and slash but also was able to parry and counter point.
The design was something I considered for a long while for my own use.
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