Well I just aquired 200 Sq. Ft.of gardening space for an organic herb and vegetable garden so I thought I'd open up this forum for all you gardeners to shoot around ideas, techniques etc. to share with everyone. Hopefully there will be some insight into Medeival techniques and tried and true methods that still work today...(and why wouldn't they?)

This garden is a microcosm experiment to practice organic gardening and soil sustainability so I'll be posting updates and results often for feedback and discussion.

The plot was handed over to me already weeded and the topsoil was already loosened by the previous owner, so I didn't need to start from scratch like my last one. I'm using the French Biointensive method as a guideline which recommends double digging raised beds; ie-dig a spade's depth and remove dirt, then loosen a pitchfork's depth under that, followed by moving a shovel's depth from the next trench on top of the loosened first and continuing on until the plot is done. Of course a soil analysis is recommended to adjust nitrogen, potash and phospherous and check the Ph level, but I may opt to just add plentyof fresh compost, which balances out those things and use gardener's intuition instead.

Progress so far:

Feb 11: Double dug 1/2 the plot (100 sq ft) and added 4.5 cu ft organic compost to top 8 inches. Removed large rocks and soil clods, as well as much sweet potato roots. Topsoil is a loam with subsoil a clay loam characteristic of tropical regions. I watered down the bed (excellent drainage due to the double-dig)and let it rest for 2 days. There were MANY healthy earthworms present in the clay loam which is very encouraging.

I also salvaged a lot of wood and particle board nearby for the toolbox and bed liners which I was planning on using, but parhaps I may go a simpler, more natural route instead. I'll have to see what the availability is on dead tree limbs and stones before making a decision on that. I like the idea of using only salvaged materials but the natural look and handcrafted approach might be more rewarding. I have a bunch of used wine crates as well, that might add something to it. I hope to finish double digging and soil enrichment this week and start on the bed liners, access path, tool box and trellises. Also order my heirloom seeds (open pollinated only-no hybrids) and build seedling boxes. Keep you up to date....

Keep this up Steve...its something I'm very interested in. I started a small garden 2 years ago. First year was good...past season was mixed. I had a bad fight with powdery mildew from an over abundance of rain. squash and cukes never produced but everything else produced fruit 3 times. I have some links on organic gardening I can dig up for you if you want them.

Sure! Would love to have them. Sorry about the mildew... not much to do about it except warmth and ventilation I'm led to believe. You could try some other hybrids that are resistant as well. This is in your backyard?

Another update:

2/13: Finished double digging the plot. Hit some hard gravel that looks like was added on purpose for either drainage reasons or to protect sweet potatoes, not sure which. Gave up trying to dig through it- it will just have to be a more shallow area of the bed. It doesn't cover that much of the plot, so its ok. I added freshly composted mulch to the subsoil this time as I was digging through the clay loam and the results are fantasic! The finished raised bed will be literally composed of over 20" of loose, enriched soil that I'm positive the crops will love! Next is the garden design.

I'm gonna hold off on the salvage material idea until I check some other, simpler designs. I could use some info on medeival designs if anyone has something to offer. I think I'd rather go old school, although I think the wine crates with the bottom removed will make an excellent border for the herb garden. We'll see when I check some other options. More later....

We have nearly 1000 sq. ft. at the back of the house. It may sound like a lot, but it isn't really. About half is given over to lawn, and the remainder is fought over by myself and the lady of the house!!!!

If I had my way, there would be a few shrubs, with the majority used for edible produce. However, the lady likes FLOWERS. Nice to look at for a few months of the year, but of no real use.

The lady is still scratching her head, because two years ago she planted about five different types of flowers in various locations, AND THEY ALL CAME UP AS TOMATO PLANTS. We had a lovely crop.

Last year we had a huge crop of raspberries (still eating the jam), gooseberries (still some in the freezer) and blackcurrants, as well as apples and elderberries (again, still eating the jam). Thyme, mint, sage, rosemary and a small bay tree are doing well. Now if I had my way, ............. oops.

We get great compost each year, leaves, grass and other plant cuttings get recycled, as well as other kitchen waste. I'm sure the plants grow better because they are trying to get away from the smell.

Yes Steve...a tiny plot in the back yard...just above the driveway...its the spot besides the front yard that gets sun. I read that you can make a solution with baking soda for the mildew. Didn't work for me. But, all the foliage around here...trees, shrubs plants in the area had it.

Some where around here is a medieval garden design but Meg will have to find it, its under her filing system sorry.

The the mildew Meg says to tell you to:
lightly sprinkle Cinnamon,
neemoil diluted with water,
milk and water,
physan 20 diluted with water,
arousal Lysol --- Lysol will discolor the leaves if sprayed too heavily,

and she says to Andrew you've got to have a few flowers to bring in the honey bees for a heavier crop.

Clover works spectacularly well for that over here, so if ever you needed an excuse, don't cut the grass while your fruit bushes/trees are in flower! Of course it helps if there is a hive within range.

Andrew I'm just plain jealous....raspberries, gooseberries, elderberries.... Over here a tomato plant that will put decent tomatoes out is a blessing! On the positive side, the area I'm growing in is tremendous for lettuce, herbs and all sorts of lovely green veggies like kale and chard. I'll be planting those as well as a variety of pole beans and peas, beets, carrots, some disappointing tomatoes, perhaps a few corn plants and cukes. Some extra flowers might help too, but my plot is adjacent to a large bed of various flowers, so perhaps it won't be neeed.

Your mildew problem sounded serious Laureen if trees had it too, but Meg's remedies sounded interesting and I would be willing to try them and may have to in my growing area where it can get cool and wet.

Duncan, I'll snoop around for some garden designs and techniques here and on the web, if you remember to ask Meg about where those garden plans are that would be great too. Thanks!

Excerpt from an English Husbandry Text:

Chap III
Of the sowing and ordering of all manner of Pot-Hearbs.
When you have prepared your ground, and cast your beds in an orderly fashion, as is before spoken, you shall then take your Seeds which Seeds would by no means be above a yeere olde: and having sorted them severally, every one by its selfe, and appointed the beds which shall severally receive them: you shall in this manner sowe your Pot-hearbs, which crave not much roote, because their onely benefit is in the leafe: take your seeds and put them into a wooden Tray, then take of your Garden moulde, the finest that may be, being made almost as fine as ashes, and mixe your Seeds, and that mould very well together, then goe to the bedde where you mean to bestow them, and having newly rackt it (to stirre up the fresh mould) with your hand sprinkle and sow them all over the bed, so thicke as may be: shich done, with a fine Rake, rake the bed gently over, then taking spare fine mould, put it into a ridling Sive, and sift it over the bed better than two fingers thickness, and so let it rest: thus you shall doe severally with every seede one after another, bestowing every one upon severall bed.

Of all sorts of Pot-hearbs. Of Endive and Succorie.
Now for your Pot-hearbs, which are most generally in use, they be these; Endive and Succorie, which delight in moyst ground, and will endure the winter. Bleete of which there be two kindes, Red and White: this Hearbe never needeth weeding, and if he be suffered to shed his seed it will hardly ever be got out of a Garden.

Of Beets.
Then Beets which must be much weeded, for they love to live by themselves, and if they grow too thicke you may take them up when they are a finger long in their owne earth, and set them in another bed, and they will prosper much better.

Land-Cresses.
Then land Cresses, which is bothe a good Pot-Hearbe and a good Sallet-Hearbe: it loveth shadowy places, where the Sunne shineth least, and standeth in need of little dung.

Parcely.
Then Parcely, which of all Hearbs is of most use, it is longest in appearing above ground, and the elder seed is the quicker in growth, but not he surer, but eyther beig once come up increase naturally, and doe hardly ever decay: it cannot grow too thicke, but as you use it you must cut off the toppes with your knife, and by no meanes pull up the rootes: if it be put into a little pursse, and beaten against the ground, to bruise it a little before it be sowne, it will make it have a large crisped leafe.

Of Savory.
Then Savory, of which there are two kindes, the Winter Savory, and Summer, both delight in leane ground, and are quicke of growth, and long lasting.

Of Time.
Then Time, of which are also two kindes, the running Time, and the Garden Time: they delight in fertile ground, and from the seede are very slow of growth, therefore it is best ever to set them from the slip. The running Time doth delight in the shadow, but the Garden Time in the Sunne.

French Mallowes.
Then French-Mallowes, which will i?p in any ground, and are quicke of growth.

Chervill.
Then Chervill, which will not by any meanes grow with any other Hearbe.

Of Dill.
Then Dill, which may be sowne almost in any moneth of the yeere as well as March: it endureth all weathers, but loveth the warmth best.

Just thought it intersting to read and and the accuracy of some of the information.

Your book is interesting to say the least.
You can always build a hot box in your garden or a miniature hot house like Jen did. Hers was made from several recycled items, bamboo shoots tepeed, or her 4 foot high x 6 foot long arch made from scrape wire and each was covered with heavy plastic ...... until her uncles cows got into her garden.

I may make a small hot house for sprouting seedlings, etc. but the main garden will remain mostly open except for trellis work tbd. I'm leaning towards using the wine crates with the bottoms knocked out to form a border for the raised beds and path and use each crate for a different herb/crop etc. with the main bed used for larger crops. Then I can even adjust each box for soil type to suit the plant and keep a track on crop rotation as well. Plus the crates look rustic and I can peice them together into a pattern. I'll try to scan a design image or picture when I can. Shooting for saturday to do the layout. Keep you posted!

Oh and I pinched that gardening segment off one of Galla's links! Hehe!

2/21: Alright I finished the bed borders and most of the toolbox/garden "shed". I ended up using a combination of salvage lumber and wine crates so that there is a main raised bed along with some single boxes sunken into it on either end for specific herbs. Got great responses so far from other gardeners. Beds are about 6-7" high from ground level with an additional 6-7" of great loam below that.

Next is how to get around in there! Also will be making seedling trays and a sprouting area. Does anyone know if sprouting and transplanting was used during middle age gardening or was direct sowing practiced more widely? Seems that direct sowing would have been easier for most, but perhaps there were savvy gardeners back then also?

Every thing that was then we are now.
Seedlings and direct sowing depends on what they were planting and there were green houses and/or hot houses very far back in history.

Your garden is really taking shape.

Thanks. I'll go there tommorow to hopefully finish the construction and tidy up. I think I'm gonna use the wine crate "innards" -you know those pieces that hold the bottles in place- and peice them together into bean poles and stakes. Also will make seedling trays from remaining scrap wood, etc. and I think a wind barrier. Still have to send away for seeds! I can get many cuttings from the area and from friends for herbs so I don't think I'll have to start from seed on those except for a few specialty herbs that I can't find here like savory and chervil. The garden is up in a cool valley so I think they will do fine. More later....

March 5th: OK...tool shed complete sans the painting and 3 large seedling trays built. Seeds sown thus far, all open pollinated/heirloom varieties:

Provider Pole beans, Rocdor Wax beans, Hawaiian Pole beans-sown directly in beds.

Royal Chantenay carrots, Little Finger carrots, Yellow Sunshine carrots-sown in flats to be thinned later.

Peron Sprayless tomato, Yellow and Red Pear tomato, Pink Brandywine, Anahu (local)- flat sown

Ruby Chard, Black Seeded Simpson lettuce, Santa Fe lettuce, Crispy Frills lettuce, mesclun mix, Bibb lettuce all broadcast sown in flats to be thinned later. Also a bit of Chinese Broccoli.

For the flat mix I simply screened out rough compost from a nearby pile through a plastic screen with 1/4" holes and mixed it with soil form the bed screened the same way in a ratio of 1:1. I also used a smaller mesh screen to further sift the mix a couple times to remove any obvious larger peices. It worked well so I recommend it as good method for germinating seeds. You can recycle the flat mix with more sifted compost and soil for future flats.

The seeds I used were pretty old but looked to be in good shape, so I'm hoping for a decent germination rate. Back with more later.....

Sounds good Cleav ,
You have done a lot of work and I am sure the plants will reward you for it. I can not remember what I did with my pictures of old gardens.
I am sure there are very many prints of them around. Even the Culpeper Herbal book was published in the late date of 1649 and Gerard Herbals were published in 1597. Gardens go back many centuries and are portrayed in many places and times.
Now do you want to come over and get my garden in order. We are still freezing at nite. But the Onions, Garlic, Chives are making there presents known. Time for our cold weather crops potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli ect....
Good luck on your old seeds we planted some years old last year and about 1 in 10 came up and some packets never even sprouted.

Thanks for the Old Garden tips. I'll maybe do a search on them. I'm not getting my hopes up on the old seeds but I think they will mostly sprout. Some packets I had were sealed and they looked good. I ordered a bunch of lettuce, herbs and beans from Heirloom Seeds so they should do well.

Come over and put your garden in shape? Sounds delightful but then who would take care of mine? I'm jealous BTW. Onions and cold weather crops do poorly here so I don't get to have fun with a lot of things that I like to eat. On the other hand, though, we have year round growing so I guess that's a trade off. Keep you guys posted.....

You do know that I would not know where to begin with a year long garden. The closet I have here is my greenhouse. I did enjoy fresh oranges and tomatoes all year long. All of the citrus and avocado trees are blooming. I need to go outside and remove some of the straw covering my delicate plants, before the momma rabbit makes her nest.

Its still too cold here even think about gardening. I can't wait to head south.

Laureen maybe we should go visit Thecleaver. Always warm and always able to have fresh veggies.

God, I'd give anything to be able to get warm and see foliage!

Ok it's settled were going. Yes we will help him plant his garden. Warm soil, green grass
NO ICE. Make room for a couple more people... We Want Spring!!!!!!!

Now now there you two....just hold on for a few more weeks and spring will have sprung. Although I could use the help!

Just received first batch of heirloom seeds from you guessed it Heirloom Seed Company. Lots of great old lettuces, pole and bush beans and a couple cukes.

Most of my seeds sprouted BTW....all looking healthy and tomorrow plan on transplanting into new flats before placing them in the garden. I also scored some tree trunk sections for stepping stones in the raised bed that will also act as vegetable bed "dividers" to keep it semi-organized, although I kind of like the free-form style.

I'm using wine crates with the bottoms knocked out for carrot beds that will be companion planted with tomatos. I'll need to get some sand to mix into them and I think I'll sift the soil in there also to up the odds of nicely shaped carrots.

Someone apparently complained about my tool box structure being too high, so now I have to take the damn roof down! I think they are just jealous...... Now I need to figure out where to have my seedling flats so they won't get destroyed be rains. Shrug........

Pole beans all looking healthy so far even though some leaves are slightly deformed. Need to build poles or trellis for them also. Never ending................

Well I transplanted the first wave of seedlings into 6" flats only to have a monsoon of rain pummel them into the dirt the very next day.

Serves me right for not thinking ahead and rushing. I'll have to build some protection screens for the flats or something. Luckily most survived although they aren't looking so great now....

On the plus side, I got some great sand for my carrot beds so I'm looking forward to a good crop there. Also got first shipment of heirloom seeds so I'll be starting new flats shortly. More later.....

Ok so I guess time for an update....

The monsoon did trash many lettuce seedlings but about half survived as well as most tomato, arugula and chard. Carrots sprouted well. Now have a variety of Chinese green vegetables sprouting as well as Detroit Red Beets, Chioggia Beets, Caraway, Italian Parsley, Peppermint, Rainbow Chard and few others. Scarlett Runner beans just came up and look great. Pole beans all healthy so far. Carrots are transplanted into sandy beds I prepared with this ratio:

1 pt sifted garden soil from bed
1 pt sifted compost
1 pt beach sand

I planted a tomato plant amidst each small bed as a companion so we'll see how they get along. I'm not betting too big on the tomatoes as they are varieties not overly suited to Hawaii, although some are doing much better than others. I'll be transplanting the lettuce, arugula, beets, chard, chinese veg later this week. Next project is to build a permanent trellis for beans and cukes and start taking softwood herb cuttings to root. I'm also going to modify my seedling flat system so that the flats are part of the actual garden bed separated by wood dividers instead of portable ones. The advantage is that I can build a few cloches to cover the tops while sprouting, have deeper soil depth and accustom the seedlings to the soil type in the actual bed to minimize transplant shock.

I'm also toying with the idea of "movable flats". The idea is to have a bottomless frame that I can position anywhere in the open garden bed and sink it about half way in. Then I can mound a seedling mix on top and plant seeds exactly where I want them and again use a cloche for protection during germination and early growth, gradually hardening them off as they grow and thinning out as needed. This way, there is no transplanting involved and the seeds gain the protection from a flat. I know I could just put the seeds right in the ground without the frame, but I think the frames will allow me to better position individual crops for maximum spacing since each crop will be "squared off". I also need to keep making compost for the seedling mix in batches by hand so it allows time between sproutings to make more for the next round. By the time I have the whole bed planted, I've added a good 2 inches of excellent topsoil! Then next time around the cycle starts over and another 2 inches eventually gets added keeping the soil sustainable. Sounds good in theory anyway......

More later.....